This is Part 2 of my article "No runs, No Drips, No errors!" It is the conclusion of the rebuilding of a side brush hydraulic motor. So, let's begin....

    The kit needed should be made of Vitron which will hold up to this fluid. You see, the repair kit you installed was being eaten up by the hydraulic fluid. It was not him it was the kit. I, of course, could send him another kit because I went to Vitron on all my repair kits many years ago when, in fact, I ran into this very problem. In the future, watch what type of Repair kits you are receiving from the suppliers because they may be unknowingly procuring the wrong type of kit.

    About a month later I received a message from my new found follower. All it stated was: "Mike, No runs, No Drips, No Errors! Thanks a bunch! Charlie P. I like people with a sense of humor.

    For the benefit of my readers I wanted to share the repair information I send with every kit. This information is taken from the Eaton instruction listed as basis A Series Geroter Hydraulic Motors. It is the best (condensed) version provided due to the limited article space.

A SERIES REPAIR INFORMATION

    Cleanliness is extremely important when repairing these motors. Before disconnecting lines, clean the part area of motor. Remove woodruff key when used. check shaft and key slot. Remove any burrs, nicks or sharp edges. Before disassembly, drain oil from motor. Then plug parts and thoroughly clean exterior of motor.

    Although not all drawings show the motor in a vise, I recommend that you keep the motor in a vise during disassembly. Follow the clamping procedures explained throughout the instructions.

1. Place motor in vise and clamp across edge of square flange with output

facing down. When clamping, use soft jaws or use rubber as protection

from clamps.

2. Remove cap screw. Easiest if using a 5/16 12 point socket.

3. Remove end cap.

4. Remove seal from end cap.

5. Remove gerotor.

6. Remove seal from gerotor.

7. Remove drive spacer if applicable.

8. Remove drive.

9. Remove spacer plate.

10. Remove seal from housing.

11. Remove output shaft from housing.

12. Remove needle thrust bearing from shaft or housing.

13. Remove motor from vise. Flip motor with square mounting flange

facing up. Again, continue to use soft jaws or another means of

protecting the motor.

14. Remove cap screws from square mounting flange. This flange is

assembled at the factor with Loctite to hold them tight in place.

    The screws will require a 5/6 12 point socket at 300 to 400 inch-pounds of torque to break loose and 100 inch pounds to remove. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use an impact socket. If torque is higher than given above is required to break loose, then you must apply heat accordingly to these following instructions.

    When heated, Loctite partially melts. This reduces the torque required to remove the screw. Use a small flame propane torch to heat small area of housing where screw enters. DO NOT overheat and damage motor. Gradually apply torque to screw with socket wrench as heat is applied for 10 seconds. As soon as screw breaks loose, remove heat. Continue turning screw until it is completely removed.

15. Remove motor from vise. Place motor on clean flat surface. Carefully

remove flange from housing.

16. Exclusion seal, back-up ring, pressure seal and seal will come off with flange.

    Now to reassemble this motor! PLEASE NOTE: Any hard parts such as housing, output shaft etc. that appear too damaged to reuse must be ordered as a separate part. This is not in the repair kit.

17. Lubricate all seals with petroleum jelly. Lubricate output shaft with

hydraulic fluid fluid then install shaft in housing.

18. Install needle thrust bearing, then bearing race on shaft. Pull shaft

partially out of housing. Push all three parts in housing together.

The bearings must rotate freely when in position.

19. Install exclusion seal in flange.

20. Lubricate I.D. end of seal tube with seal seat in mounting flange. Install the

back up ring and pressure seal in tube with lips of seal facing up.

21. Lubricate space between exclusion seal and pressure seal. Install flange.

Rotate flange slowly while pushing down over shaft. Be careful not to damage

seals.

22. Rotate gerotor to line up with bolt holes Install drive spacer if applicable.

23. Install seal in end cap.

24. Install cap screws and seals washers in end cap. Pre-tighten screws to 40

inch pounds. Make sure seal are properly seated. then torque screws

275-300 pounds in sequence.

    Good luck on rebuilding your motors. If you need help or have any questions about any of this, please contact me at 1-800-346-2319 or e-mail me at mikec98423@yahoo.com. If you would like a monthly e-mail of my articles, please let me know.

    I always appreciate your comments and input. Contact me with your sweeper/scrubber problems. Thank you.

                                                                    Michael R. Creamer